This is a link to the archives section of the Daily Observer
http://observer.gm
18 July 2008
7 June 2008
27 May 2008
27 May - The Final Day
After a lot of difficulties at the port trying to find a Customs official, apparently there are only 3 in the Devon & Cornwall area! Eventually 2 came to our assistance, unfortunately they were useless as they'd never seen similar paperwork before, but after just over an hour our forms for the bikes were stamped and we were on our way!
We are now all back home safely and the whole adventure was a great success. Not all went smoothly, what with the difficulties at Rosso, police fines and the heat getting to my bike at one point, but it's all those things combined together that make the experience
We went prepared for anything but in the end apart from sleeping outside one night at the port we never camped once
The total milage was 6563 miles in 24 days including all rest days. Its hard to put into words what the experience was like so I'll do you all a favour and not even try, but it has been amazing, we have seen so much that we will never forget
It really was the trip of a lifetime, but hopefully not my last big bike adventure
I definitely could do with a break from riding, the thought of riding up to the British Moto GP in a few weeks is far from my mind..... I think for the first time ever, I might go to Donnington in a car!
Thankyou for reading and all comments along the way were much appreciated (more photos to follow)
We are now all back home safely and the whole adventure was a great success. Not all went smoothly, what with the difficulties at Rosso, police fines and the heat getting to my bike at one point, but it's all those things combined together that make the experience
We went prepared for anything but in the end apart from sleeping outside one night at the port we never camped once
The total milage was 6563 miles in 24 days including all rest days. Its hard to put into words what the experience was like so I'll do you all a favour and not even try, but it has been amazing, we have seen so much that we will never forget
It really was the trip of a lifetime, but hopefully not my last big bike adventure
I definitely could do with a break from riding, the thought of riding up to the British Moto GP in a few weeks is far from my mind..... I think for the first time ever, I might go to Donnington in a car!
Thankyou for reading and all comments along the way were much appreciated (more photos to follow)
26 May
We rode to the ferry in plenty of time just in case of any problems, but all went ok.
We're now on our way back to England, dad has even managed to not be sick so far this time!
Miles covered: 3
26 May 2008
25 May
Today we headed for Santander, all was going well until about 100 miles away, at around midday a police car that was sitting in a layby pulled out as we went passed. He passed dad then me, then the lights went on and he signalled for me to pull over.
Even though we haven't been going quick all 3 of us assumed they were going to book me for speeding, but to our suprise it was dad they were interested in. They fined him on the spot €105 in broad daylight because his headlight wasn't working, he wasn't very happy!
Then about 30 miles from Santander we hit a really bad hail storm, we are now all drenched and just wanting to get home, the fun ended when we left Africa!
We found a hotel in the town ready for our ferry tomorrow
Miles covered: 326
Even though we haven't been going quick all 3 of us assumed they were going to book me for speeding, but to our suprise it was dad they were interested in. They fined him on the spot €105 in broad daylight because his headlight wasn't working, he wasn't very happy!
Then about 30 miles from Santander we hit a really bad hail storm, we are now all drenched and just wanting to get home, the fun ended when we left Africa!
We found a hotel in the town ready for our ferry tomorrow
Miles covered: 326
25 May 2008
24 May
Well for a lot of today it has been cold, wet and horrible, we must be getting nearer home!
We didn't have an early start today as we lost 2 hours last night due to the time difference and we are in no rush, our ferry from Santander doesn't leave until early Monday afternoon.
We rode through the first lot of rain, then it started again and came over really cloudy overhead at around 5pm, we had done roughly the amount of miles we set out to do today, so we found a typical Spanish little hotel by the motorway
In this small hotel we met the second English person we've met since leaving the ferry from England 3 weeks ago, John the lorry driver and he joined us for a drink. We chatted with him for a while and then found out he not only lives in Kent but in Herne Bay, its a small world!
Miles covered: 325
24 May 2008
23 May
After an early start we were well on our way to Tangir, the roads from here on are mainly dual carriageway and all are smooth easy going.
We arrived at the port in plenty of time after a big struggle to find it! There were less documents to deal with this time, they aren't so concerned when a European vehicle leaves, only when one tries to enter Africa.
Soon we were on the ferry back across to civilised Europe!
We headed out of Algerciras in the direction we would be heading in the morning and stayed at the first hotel we found!
Miles covered: 394
23 May 2008
22 May
Tan-tan is on the edge of the desert and when you leave the town heading north you immediately enter the foothills of some mountains, so today has been an incredible change in scenery from what we have got used to.
The bikes are both running well and we were on our way to Marrakech
Out of the foothills and heading towards Agadir there was no sandstorm this time and its amazing how much different everything looked!
After a quick snack we were soon entering the Atlas mountains, through the mountains is was so much busier than when we had passed through the first time so we were kicking ourselves for not taking the photos then. I got a few but at any of the steep climbs and descents where the really picturesque views were, it was far to dangerous to stop due to the lorries thundering past
We passed one lorry that had jack-knifed on the mountain road and dropped its load, and about a mile on there was another lorry that had a smashed front and the police were there so it was a recent crash
We have now covered over 5000 miles and we are all pretty worn out so covering miles through windy mountainous scenery is great but the miles are a lot harder to cover than across desert
We arrived in Marrakech around 7pm and eventually found the same hotel as last time as others were full. Tonight we went to an internet café and have booked the ferry from Tangir to Algeciras for 5.30pm tomorrow
Miles covered: 370
The bikes are both running well and we were on our way to Marrakech
Out of the foothills and heading towards Agadir there was no sandstorm this time and its amazing how much different everything looked!
After a quick snack we were soon entering the Atlas mountains, through the mountains is was so much busier than when we had passed through the first time so we were kicking ourselves for not taking the photos then. I got a few but at any of the steep climbs and descents where the really picturesque views were, it was far to dangerous to stop due to the lorries thundering past
We passed one lorry that had jack-knifed on the mountain road and dropped its load, and about a mile on there was another lorry that had a smashed front and the police were there so it was a recent crash
We have now covered over 5000 miles and we are all pretty worn out so covering miles through windy mountainous scenery is great but the miles are a lot harder to cover than across desert
We arrived in Marrakech around 7pm and eventually found the same hotel as last time as others were full. Tonight we went to an internet café and have booked the ferry from Tangir to Algeciras for 5.30pm tomorrow
Miles covered: 370
21 May
Even though Dakhla was one of the best and cleanest towns we have seen in Africa, we have a long journey still ahead of us and were glad to leave this morning around half 7
After 90 miles in the middle of nowhere in the desert the bike stuttered and stalled.... this was not a good sign! Luckily it turned out I had run out of petrol, the mechanic obviously forgot to connect the reserve light up so I was unaware that I was that low. I have the spare 20 litre tank full on the back so it wasn't a problem
Even though we diagnosed the problem with my bike was the thermostat we obviously don't have a spare, so it has only been removed, cleaned and put back on. It must have been the sheer temperatures we are experiencing combined with sand getting everywhere that caused the problem, as today the bike has run perfectly again!
We kept it at a steady pace all day and made it to Tan-tan in Morocco, we have found a different hotel though as the one on the first leg of our journey here was pretty bad! We even arrived just after the second half of Chelsea v Man U had started so we got to watch the end of that
Miles covered: 532
After 90 miles in the middle of nowhere in the desert the bike stuttered and stalled.... this was not a good sign! Luckily it turned out I had run out of petrol, the mechanic obviously forgot to connect the reserve light up so I was unaware that I was that low. I have the spare 20 litre tank full on the back so it wasn't a problem
Even though we diagnosed the problem with my bike was the thermostat we obviously don't have a spare, so it has only been removed, cleaned and put back on. It must have been the sheer temperatures we are experiencing combined with sand getting everywhere that caused the problem, as today the bike has run perfectly again!
We kept it at a steady pace all day and made it to Tan-tan in Morocco, we have found a different hotel though as the one on the first leg of our journey here was pretty bad! We even arrived just after the second half of Chelsea v Man U had started so we got to watch the end of that
Miles covered: 532
22 May 2008
20 May
We went to garage first thing and found the bike in pieces in the road, extremely worried now and with no choice but to leave it with this mechanic, we made a couple of calls to our Honda dealer and believe the problem was the thermostat.
For some reason pressure built up and when it released it blew a leak in the radiator, which now needs welding.
After going through all this with mechanic we left him to it. We popped back later and he had unblocked all the sand from the choke, removed/cleaned and put the thermostat back on, repaired the leak on the radiator and fitted a manual switch for the fan, all for £70
We rested for the rest of the day aiming to get an early start in the morning
Miles covered: 2
For some reason pressure built up and when it released it blew a leak in the radiator, which now needs welding.
After going through all this with mechanic we left him to it. We popped back later and he had unblocked all the sand from the choke, removed/cleaned and put the thermostat back on, repaired the leak on the radiator and fitted a manual switch for the fan, all for £70
We rested for the rest of the day aiming to get an early start in the morning
Miles covered: 2
19 May
We set off from Nouadhibou around 8am and were at the border within an hour.
This time we were prepared for the 3km of rough tracks in no-mans land between the Mauri and Western Sahara borders. Taking each section at a time and having a rough idea of which direction to head in, it was much easier.... mum unimpressed by dads off roading skills so far walked it just in case!
Both sides of the border were much busier than when we had passed through the first time, full of frustrated people, hot and tired, waiting for their forms to be dealt with and their passports stamped
Amongst the people waiting on the Western Sahara side there were 3 or 4 French lads that were having a big argument with Customs when we arrived. Our French not being the best the argument was hard to translate, but we believe they wouldn't let their car through for some reason. They ended up pitching their tent on the concrete in front of the Customs office in protest, but the authorities are going nowhere so just let them get on with it.
I knew it was going to be risky but this really would make a good photo, I managed to take 2 with my phone, with only the French lads noticing. One of them then went to their car and got a camera out to do the same, unfortunately they were spotted instantly, the camera grabbed from him and he was dragged away.... lucky I was subtle!
After about an hour at this border all was dealt with and we were on our way, leaving all the excitement behind us
Unfortunately after 50 miles just as we were pulling into a petrol station in the middle of the desert disaster struck, I looked down and a coloured fluid was all over my boot! Instantly worried it was petrol but it turned out to be coolant fluid. None of us being mechanics we looked for leaks but couldn't see one so we topped up the water and hoped for the best.
It wasn't long before the water was all out again, so again we topped up.
We sat at 60mph for about 160 miles to Dakhla the nearest town, time passed slowly and the miles passed even slower
We finally arrived at Dakhla and headed for the same hotel as before as this was one less thing to think about. Outside the hotel was a police car with 4 policeman sitting in it doing nothing so we asked them if they knew of a bike mechanic. They were helpful and offered to show us the way, so we followed. I wouldn't let anyone at this garage near my bike as I don't think it would have even started after they went near it let alone made it 2500 miles home!
Someone passing the hotel started talking to us and said his friend was a bike mechanic, he came to the hotel and seemed better than the last, so we had to trust him with the bike overnight.
We now have to spend an evening trying not to worry about the bike and how I will get home. That night in the hotel we met an American guy that has spent the last 6 months walking across Spain/Portugal and is now cycling down through Africa. He was a bit crazy but he had many interesting tales from his travels!
Miles covered: 278
21 May 2008
20 May 2008
18 May
An easy day today, all prepared for conditions like the sand storm we had experienced on the way down, but things were much calmer.
Dad solved his clutch problem today, when he had fallen off he had moved his hand guard slightly so the lever wasn't extending fully! He's feeling pretty stupid but relieved its solved
Sand has got litterally everywhere, and unfortunately this is what has caused my choke to jam. Most of the riding ahead is open roads which I'm told shouldn't cause it too much of a problem.
We had arranged to stay in Nouadhibou where we stopped on the way down as he promised us langoustine, none of us had tried these before, he did as he promised and it was very nice
We saw 3 other bikes today, which brings the total of the trip since leaving the top of Morocco (other than local mopeds) upto 5! I also met one European guy at Rosso that was travelling on a KTM 990, but that was stuck at Nouakcott with a blown head gasket!
Miles covered: 300
17 May
We left St Louis and headed for the dreaded Rosso river crossing at the Mauri border. Being much better prepared this time it went better but the authorities still try to get money out of you at every opportunity. The locals are just as dishonest, I caught a disabled boy who was begging and playing the sympathy card trying to steal from the BM's topbox.
Eventually we were clear of Rosso and travelling through Mauritania, we were only going as far as Noakchott as we have more time for the return journey.
This may be the capital of Mauri but it is a dump, with sandy shanty town style streets, from what we saw it has nothing to offer. Mauritania is a very desolate place, covered by desert, and poverty where there are inhabitants.
Dads clutch is getting worse and we may have to find a BMW dealer when we get to Marrakesh, and my choke is now stuck on permanently.
Miles covered: 190
16 May
Its always sad to leave at the end of a holiday but after 3 days it felt as if we had only just got there.
We headed off at 6am for Banjul to catch the ferry to Barra, luckily a Gambian friend that lives in Banjul kindly offered to get there early and get the tickets for us. He got there at 5 which was a good job as the queue of cars alone was well over 200 metres long and the ferry only takes about 12 vehicles at a time!
We skipped straight to the front and were soon on our way. Of the first 80 miles about 30 was on tracks, it was much easier this time as we had previously done this part in the dark.
We saw quite a few monkeys running across the road today which we hadn't seen on the way down, but they were much too fast for me to get the camera out
The clutch is slipping a lot on the BMW but otherwise the bikes are running well after the 3 day rest
All the police were busy with other vehicles at the checkpoint going into St Louis so no fines this time
We are staying at the same hotel as before in St Louis in Senegal, as it isn't the nicest of towns and they let us park inside the hotel
Miles covered: 311
We headed off at 6am for Banjul to catch the ferry to Barra, luckily a Gambian friend that lives in Banjul kindly offered to get there early and get the tickets for us. He got there at 5 which was a good job as the queue of cars alone was well over 200 metres long and the ferry only takes about 12 vehicles at a time!
We skipped straight to the front and were soon on our way. Of the first 80 miles about 30 was on tracks, it was much easier this time as we had previously done this part in the dark.
We saw quite a few monkeys running across the road today which we hadn't seen on the way down, but they were much too fast for me to get the camera out
The clutch is slipping a lot on the BMW but otherwise the bikes are running well after the 3 day rest
All the police were busy with other vehicles at the checkpoint going into St Louis so no fines this time
We are staying at the same hotel as before in St Louis in Senegal, as it isn't the nicest of towns and they let us park inside the hotel
Miles covered: 311
15 May 2008
HALF WAY!!
The daunting feeling now is that after 3 days rest we have to do it all again!
I have been writing the blog at the end of each day but since the start of Mauritania I have been unable to get an internet connection on my phone, I have added these last few days since being in Gambia. I have no laptop with me up until now all I have been using to do the blog is a digital camera and my mobile so apologies for any upside down photos etc
On the way home we have 2 extra days compared to the journey here so we will be taking more photos and have easier days
As we have now made it some people may stop reading the blog so I would like to say a couple of thank yous to the people that have helped us get this far:
Thanks to Delandale Solutions for letting me have the time off, thanks to Howe Heating for being my main financial sponsor.... but do you have to come with me next time?!!
Thanks to Hadrian at Kent Motorcycles, I went to him less than a month before I was due to leave on this trip in desperate need of a bike at the last minute that would be up to this very tough journey... I made it!
To anyone thinking of doing a similar trip he had before I left an immaculate blue Varadero in his showroom on the A2, Barham
The bikes have both been brilliant, this has been the hardest journey any of us have ever attempted, we covered around 3250 miles through extreme conditions in 9 days through 7 countries, 2 continents! We have experienced many different cultures and foods, and met many kind people along the way
Whilst being here everyone has been amazed at how quickly we managed it, every year they get people doing similar trips in 4x4's but not in this short amount of time, we have even been interviewed by the local paper as they were very interested to hear about our adventure
We have pushed the bikes so hard for so long at a time across the desert that the exhaust pipes now appear to be permanently burnt black, I am no stranger to high speeds or long distances but I have never managed this before
I am writing this on Thursday 15 May, we have just taken the bikes out to refuel (dad fell off in the sand again!) and we will be setting off tomorrow at 6am
I have been writing the blog at the end of each day but since the start of Mauritania I have been unable to get an internet connection on my phone, I have added these last few days since being in Gambia. I have no laptop with me up until now all I have been using to do the blog is a digital camera and my mobile so apologies for any upside down photos etc
On the way home we have 2 extra days compared to the journey here so we will be taking more photos and have easier days
As we have now made it some people may stop reading the blog so I would like to say a couple of thank yous to the people that have helped us get this far:
Thanks to Delandale Solutions for letting me have the time off, thanks to Howe Heating for being my main financial sponsor.... but do you have to come with me next time?!!
Thanks to Hadrian at Kent Motorcycles, I went to him less than a month before I was due to leave on this trip in desperate need of a bike at the last minute that would be up to this very tough journey... I made it!
To anyone thinking of doing a similar trip he had before I left an immaculate blue Varadero in his showroom on the A2, Barham
The bikes have both been brilliant, this has been the hardest journey any of us have ever attempted, we covered around 3250 miles through extreme conditions in 9 days through 7 countries, 2 continents! We have experienced many different cultures and foods, and met many kind people along the way
Whilst being here everyone has been amazed at how quickly we managed it, every year they get people doing similar trips in 4x4's but not in this short amount of time, we have even been interviewed by the local paper as they were very interested to hear about our adventure
We have pushed the bikes so hard for so long at a time across the desert that the exhaust pipes now appear to be permanently burnt black, I am no stranger to high speeds or long distances but I have never managed this before
I am writing this on Thursday 15 May, we have just taken the bikes out to refuel (dad fell off in the sand again!) and we will be setting off tomorrow at 6am
13 May
The ferry started boarding at 6.30am, after very little sleep we were all awake and ready
The crossing to Banjul, the Gambian capital, took about 40 minutes and we were soon on the busy streets
All we had was a half hour journey to our destination, at all the checkpoints on the way we were waved through no questions
Once off the main road through Bakau we had about 300 metres of sand to get through, but it wasn't too deep
Miles covered: 9
The crossing to Banjul, the Gambian capital, took about 40 minutes and we were soon on the busy streets
All we had was a half hour journey to our destination, at all the checkpoints on the way we were waved through no questions
Once off the main road through Bakau we had about 300 metres of sand to get through, but it wasn't too deep
Miles covered: 9
12 May
We left the hotel in St Louis at about 9am and after what had happened at the border into Senegal we all just wanted to get out and into Gambia. After not even 10 miles we were stopped at a police checkpoint, he put his hand up to stop us, then motioned for us to pull over at the side of the road. He fined us the equivalent of 30 pounds each for not indicating when he pulled us over! Again this got quite heated as we know the fine for not indicating cannot be this much, with no chance of a receipt we are fully aware this is not official but we had no choice but to pay so that we could move on.
After this all went well in Senegal, the people were friendly and we were not stopped at any more checkpoints.
At 5.30pm it was still 42 degrees whilst moving and the heat got to us all, we had to stop as we couldn't physically carry on. We rested for an hour at what we believe was a lorry Customs checkpoint, they could could see we were struggling and let us rest in the shade inside their shack!
To get to the Gambian border we had about a 17 mile stretch of rough going, where there was tarmac it was completely covered in potholes. It is now starting to get dark and due to dads bike blowing a bulb back in Mauri we have one headlight between us
We were dreading the Senegalese half of the border to Gambia but all went well, both sides were really friendly and helpful
We are now in Gambia, we made it from England in 9 days!
Now we have to head for Barra to get a ferry to the south side, with still only one headlight and it being completely pitch black we had 12 miles to do on rough tracks.
We had been told the last ferry would leave at 11pm, we got there at 10.30 only to see it pulling away!
The security guard let us in the dock gates as we decided we were all so tired that we may as well stay there and get the first ferry in the morning. We each chose a bench and attempted to get comfortable!
Miles covered: 310
After this all went well in Senegal, the people were friendly and we were not stopped at any more checkpoints.
At 5.30pm it was still 42 degrees whilst moving and the heat got to us all, we had to stop as we couldn't physically carry on. We rested for an hour at what we believe was a lorry Customs checkpoint, they could could see we were struggling and let us rest in the shade inside their shack!
To get to the Gambian border we had about a 17 mile stretch of rough going, where there was tarmac it was completely covered in potholes. It is now starting to get dark and due to dads bike blowing a bulb back in Mauri we have one headlight between us
We were dreading the Senegalese half of the border to Gambia but all went well, both sides were really friendly and helpful
We are now in Gambia, we made it from England in 9 days!
Now we have to head for Barra to get a ferry to the south side, with still only one headlight and it being completely pitch black we had 12 miles to do on rough tracks.
We had been told the last ferry would leave at 11pm, we got there at 10.30 only to see it pulling away!
The security guard let us in the dock gates as we decided we were all so tired that we may as well stay there and get the first ferry in the morning. We each chose a bench and attempted to get comfortable!
Miles covered: 310
11 May
Todays aim was to cross Mauritania and get across the river into Senegal. We knew it was going to be tough so we had an early breakfast and set off at 6.30, we managed the first 180 miles which was through a sand storm by 9am!
The scenery is just sand dunes for as far as you can see to both sides now that the sand storm has eased off.
The roads are getting worse and worse as we head south, and the standard of driving is not improving. We have seen some pretty bold overtakes that have ended in us taking evasive action!
Today we knew we were going to have about a 300 mile stretch with no petrol stations or anything, but desert, we have the spare fuel tank so were prepared. We made it ok, but it is a daunting feeling knowing that if you have a problem out there you really are in trouble!
All continued to go well, we were now nearing the edge of the desert, there are the odd little clusters of shacks every 20 miles or so. Unfortunately with these dwelling came animals, we have had everything from lambs and small children to fully grown camels walking out into our path today, a true test of our brakes in places.
Today the temperature whilst going along with a strong breeze reached 41 degrees, so I dread to think what it would have been when stationary.
We eventually made it to Rosso at about 3.30pm where we would be crossing into Senegal, no real problems on the Mauri side. We had been warned about Senegal for pick pockets etc, it is a lot rougher than Gambia. They were right but unfortunately it was the police we had trouble with. After the 5 minute river crossing the Senegalese were demanding 170 euros to continue. In total it took about 2 hours and got quite heated but in the end we had to pay it or we were going nowhere!
Absolutely shattered from the heat and not having eaten properly since breakfast, we headed about 75 miles to St Louis where we opted for the first hotel we came to, which is really nice and they even let us park the bikes in the reception area!
Miles covered: 489
The scenery is just sand dunes for as far as you can see to both sides now that the sand storm has eased off.
The roads are getting worse and worse as we head south, and the standard of driving is not improving. We have seen some pretty bold overtakes that have ended in us taking evasive action!
Today we knew we were going to have about a 300 mile stretch with no petrol stations or anything, but desert, we have the spare fuel tank so were prepared. We made it ok, but it is a daunting feeling knowing that if you have a problem out there you really are in trouble!
All continued to go well, we were now nearing the edge of the desert, there are the odd little clusters of shacks every 20 miles or so. Unfortunately with these dwelling came animals, we have had everything from lambs and small children to fully grown camels walking out into our path today, a true test of our brakes in places.
Today the temperature whilst going along with a strong breeze reached 41 degrees, so I dread to think what it would have been when stationary.
We eventually made it to Rosso at about 3.30pm where we would be crossing into Senegal, no real problems on the Mauri side. We had been warned about Senegal for pick pockets etc, it is a lot rougher than Gambia. They were right but unfortunately it was the police we had trouble with. After the 5 minute river crossing the Senegalese were demanding 170 euros to continue. In total it took about 2 hours and got quite heated but in the end we had to pay it or we were going nowhere!
Absolutely shattered from the heat and not having eaten properly since breakfast, we headed about 75 miles to St Louis where we opted for the first hotel we came to, which is really nice and they even let us park the bikes in the reception area!
Miles covered: 489
14 May 2008
10 May
After covering serious mileage across the desert yesterday we were hoping to do the same again, unfortunately today things got tough!
We left the hotel just before 9am with the aim of stopping for a drink and something to eat after about an hour which would be our breakfast. There were no petrol stations for miles, in the first 100 miles we saw only 2 cars! After 110 miles we came round a bend to see sand across the road, this isn't the first time, we eased off the throttle, but as we got up to it we realised it wasn't centimetres or even inches deep, it was a couple of feet deep! We broke hard and both came to a stop in the sand, unfortunately i was laying down, a few Sahara scars on the bike but no real damage!
Just to point out fully loaded these bikes each weigh well over 300kgs which doesn't make them easy to stop, with my bike tank and the spare tank strapped to the back I am carrying 45 litres of fuel when full, which adds a lot of weight!
After picking the bike up, dusting myself off and wading it through the sand with the help of several Moroccans that had just pushed their minibus through it, we were on our way again.
We continued to make good time and covered 180 miles by the time we got to a petrol station for breakfast! After this we did about another 60 miles to the Mauritanian border, this is where the fun started!
We arrived at 1.45pm and it took about an hour to pass through the Moroccan controls, then we had 3km of no-mans land before the Mauri border.
Not wanting to go off track because of the borders being littered with land mines to prevent anyone from avoiding the border controls, we stuck to the main track.... it was really deep sand which was impossible for us to ride through with all the weight on our bikes. After about 30 metres dad was the first to hit the ground and mum went flying, a car stopped to help pick it back up as I couldn't put mine on its stand as it would of just sunk in and fallen aswell! We decided to concentrate on one bike at a time, so I carried on but it wasn't long before I was laying down for the second time today! I got a bit further and reached hard ground so I could leave it and see how dad was getting on. He got a little way but it was just too deep and he was over again!
The main track we were following faded out into various random tracks, we had no idea which direction we should be heading and didn't want to get blown up! As this must be a common problem a man with a van turned up and together we got dads bike onto hard ground and for 10 euros per bike he would drive slowly the best route with mum in the van and we followed... money well spent
This 3km alone took 45 mins not including the 2 sets of border controls
We now had a choice ride 60km to Nouadhibou or push on another 400km to Noukchott. As we were really drained after all that in the desert heat and time was getting on we opted for the closer option
Although these bikes are designed to be very rugged we have to be careful as even after reaching Gambia we still have to do it all over again to get home!
Miles covered: 271
We left the hotel just before 9am with the aim of stopping for a drink and something to eat after about an hour which would be our breakfast. There were no petrol stations for miles, in the first 100 miles we saw only 2 cars! After 110 miles we came round a bend to see sand across the road, this isn't the first time, we eased off the throttle, but as we got up to it we realised it wasn't centimetres or even inches deep, it was a couple of feet deep! We broke hard and both came to a stop in the sand, unfortunately i was laying down, a few Sahara scars on the bike but no real damage!
Just to point out fully loaded these bikes each weigh well over 300kgs which doesn't make them easy to stop, with my bike tank and the spare tank strapped to the back I am carrying 45 litres of fuel when full, which adds a lot of weight!
After picking the bike up, dusting myself off and wading it through the sand with the help of several Moroccans that had just pushed their minibus through it, we were on our way again.
We continued to make good time and covered 180 miles by the time we got to a petrol station for breakfast! After this we did about another 60 miles to the Mauritanian border, this is where the fun started!
We arrived at 1.45pm and it took about an hour to pass through the Moroccan controls, then we had 3km of no-mans land before the Mauri border.
Not wanting to go off track because of the borders being littered with land mines to prevent anyone from avoiding the border controls, we stuck to the main track.... it was really deep sand which was impossible for us to ride through with all the weight on our bikes. After about 30 metres dad was the first to hit the ground and mum went flying, a car stopped to help pick it back up as I couldn't put mine on its stand as it would of just sunk in and fallen aswell! We decided to concentrate on one bike at a time, so I carried on but it wasn't long before I was laying down for the second time today! I got a bit further and reached hard ground so I could leave it and see how dad was getting on. He got a little way but it was just too deep and he was over again!
The main track we were following faded out into various random tracks, we had no idea which direction we should be heading and didn't want to get blown up! As this must be a common problem a man with a van turned up and together we got dads bike onto hard ground and for 10 euros per bike he would drive slowly the best route with mum in the van and we followed... money well spent
This 3km alone took 45 mins not including the 2 sets of border controls
We now had a choice ride 60km to Nouadhibou or push on another 400km to Noukchott. As we were really drained after all that in the desert heat and time was getting on we opted for the closer option
Although these bikes are designed to be very rugged we have to be careful as even after reaching Gambia we still have to do it all over again to get home!
Miles covered: 271
9 May
We left Tan-tan about 8.30am, the little group of shops we parked in weren't open yet, but the old man had been hanging around as he had guessed we would be wanting to set off. For parking in his shop all he wanted was the equivalent of about 1 pound 50, plus 2 aspirin!
We covered about 70 miles then we stopped for breakfast. Just as we were finishing and starting to get our bike gear on a man came over and just said "cobra". We nodded at him as we had been hoping to see a snake in Marrakesh but missed them, sure enough a cobra popped its head up, he then holding onto its tail kept flicking it with a rag so that it came out of the box properly in attack mode with its neck flattened and started hissing. He definitely couldn't be described as a snake "charmer" but it was great to see it that close!
The views have been breath taking, we are travelling on a road down the western coastline of Africa, we have the sea to our right and desert as far as the eye can see on our left. Due to being on the coast at the points the wind is the strongest I've ever known and very demanding to ride through. The Sahara isn't all the same, some sections are covered in camel grass and cacti with random groups of camels roaming free, other parts are clear sandy dunes. At one point whilst crossing the desert it rained, only for about 30 seconds but it was extraordinary as it was the last thing we expected!
Including crossing the border into the Western Sahara we have wasted about 2 hours at police checkpoints today which is really frustrating as we want to keep going. They have the same form to complete each time, passport number, name, profession, dates of arrival/departure etc
We did a long day today and stopped for the night in a port called Dakhla at 8.30pm. We are really off the tourist route so everything is a lot cheaper, the first hotel we looked at was just over 2 pounds per person but was a bit grim. We settled on one which was 17 pounds for the 3 of us, with a much welcomed hot shower in both rooms! We are fully equipped to camp, with 2 tents, stove, sleeping bags, sleeping mats etc but this is a last resort as we can cover many more miles without the worry of putting up tents and cooking.
We did realise one down side of this hotel after it was too late, it was about 30 metres from the edge of an airport! Luckily there were no planes after midnight so we got a good rest
Miles covered: 527
We covered about 70 miles then we stopped for breakfast. Just as we were finishing and starting to get our bike gear on a man came over and just said "cobra". We nodded at him as we had been hoping to see a snake in Marrakesh but missed them, sure enough a cobra popped its head up, he then holding onto its tail kept flicking it with a rag so that it came out of the box properly in attack mode with its neck flattened and started hissing. He definitely couldn't be described as a snake "charmer" but it was great to see it that close!
The views have been breath taking, we are travelling on a road down the western coastline of Africa, we have the sea to our right and desert as far as the eye can see on our left. Due to being on the coast at the points the wind is the strongest I've ever known and very demanding to ride through. The Sahara isn't all the same, some sections are covered in camel grass and cacti with random groups of camels roaming free, other parts are clear sandy dunes. At one point whilst crossing the desert it rained, only for about 30 seconds but it was extraordinary as it was the last thing we expected!
Including crossing the border into the Western Sahara we have wasted about 2 hours at police checkpoints today which is really frustrating as we want to keep going. They have the same form to complete each time, passport number, name, profession, dates of arrival/departure etc
We did a long day today and stopped for the night in a port called Dakhla at 8.30pm. We are really off the tourist route so everything is a lot cheaper, the first hotel we looked at was just over 2 pounds per person but was a bit grim. We settled on one which was 17 pounds for the 3 of us, with a much welcomed hot shower in both rooms! We are fully equipped to camp, with 2 tents, stove, sleeping bags, sleeping mats etc but this is a last resort as we can cover many more miles without the worry of putting up tents and cooking.
We did realise one down side of this hotel after it was too late, it was about 30 metres from the edge of an airport! Luckily there were no planes after midnight so we got a good rest
Miles covered: 527
9 May 2008
8 May
We set off from deep within the capital but without a crazy old man on a moped to follow this time, in search of a main road or even a road sign!
Eventually we were on the road to Agadir and the first 50 miles out of Marrakesh were crazy. There are no more motorways from now on, it was a single carriageway but you would still see a coach overtaking a car that was already passing a moped, they would then start flashing any on coming traffic and expect us to move over onto the gravel!
After the first 50 miles there was a lot less traffic and things calmed down a bit, we were now heading for the high atlas mountains.
The mountains made a great ride with views we'll never forget.... which is lucky as unfortunately we forgot to take any photos! (there's always the ride back!)
Nearing the end of the mountains we could see a city under a large dust cloud, this was Agadir and this was where the wind really picked up and was carrying the sand with it so we really couldn't see far in front at some points. At one point a Fiat uno was in front, he moved over slightly and motioned out of his window to pass him.... he hadn't realised but we were already trying, it was just impossible to go in a straight line at that point because of the wind! We eventually got past him only for us both to nearly get blown over as we came to stop at a roundabout!
After 40 miles the winds eased off slightly and we were heading into some more mountains, when what we had been dreading happened, a puncture! I noticed the handling of my bike getting worse, then it went completely, I brought the bike to a stop only to find a hole in the rear tyre that was a good 3mm wide. We unpacked all the tools and managed to do a temporary fix and inflate it at the roadside, this got us to the next town where a small garage repaired it properly!
The last eighty miles were completely desolate all we have seen is police checkpoints and trucks that don't stop or even slow for anything except the checkpoints!
Tonight we are stopping in a town called Tan-tan and it is a little rough so we weren't too keen on leaving our bikes on the street but one of the shops next door had space and has kindly let us drive them in to his shop for the night!
Miles covered: 368
Eventually we were on the road to Agadir and the first 50 miles out of Marrakesh were crazy. There are no more motorways from now on, it was a single carriageway but you would still see a coach overtaking a car that was already passing a moped, they would then start flashing any on coming traffic and expect us to move over onto the gravel!
After the first 50 miles there was a lot less traffic and things calmed down a bit, we were now heading for the high atlas mountains.
The mountains made a great ride with views we'll never forget.... which is lucky as unfortunately we forgot to take any photos! (there's always the ride back!)
Nearing the end of the mountains we could see a city under a large dust cloud, this was Agadir and this was where the wind really picked up and was carrying the sand with it so we really couldn't see far in front at some points. At one point a Fiat uno was in front, he moved over slightly and motioned out of his window to pass him.... he hadn't realised but we were already trying, it was just impossible to go in a straight line at that point because of the wind! We eventually got past him only for us both to nearly get blown over as we came to stop at a roundabout!
After 40 miles the winds eased off slightly and we were heading into some more mountains, when what we had been dreading happened, a puncture! I noticed the handling of my bike getting worse, then it went completely, I brought the bike to a stop only to find a hole in the rear tyre that was a good 3mm wide. We unpacked all the tools and managed to do a temporary fix and inflate it at the roadside, this got us to the next town where a small garage repaired it properly!
The last eighty miles were completely desolate all we have seen is police checkpoints and trucks that don't stop or even slow for anything except the checkpoints!
Tonight we are stopping in a town called Tan-tan and it is a little rough so we weren't too keen on leaving our bikes on the street but one of the shops next door had space and has kindly let us drive them in to his shop for the night!
Miles covered: 368
7 May
All went well at Algeciras and with the crossing.... Dad even managed not to be seasick!
Getting through the port the other side was a bit more difficult, it could have been worse though being on bikes as opposed to in cars is helping a lot, we have been waved to the front of every queue so far. The Moroccans even wanted to see the log books for our bikes! We got through the African port in about 45 minutes in the end which wasn't too bad.
We changed some money and set off for Marrakesh, they have built a motorway since I was last here, which meant getting to the capital was an easy ride except for the speed cameras! We had been warned to look out for them but could never have imagined how many there would be! In one 20 mile stretch there must have been a mixture of about 10 police speed traps, gatsos and armed checkpoints!
On arrival we had to find somewhere cheap to stay. A little old man on a moped pulled over to chat to us as we looked lost, he said to follow him to a hotel, trustingly we did, we are both on quite big powerful bikes but through the manic seemingly lawless streets we really did struggle to stay with him! He did as promised though and it even had parking for the bikes.
We ate that night out in the open in the hustle and bustle of the main square
Miles covered: 364
Getting through the port the other side was a bit more difficult, it could have been worse though being on bikes as opposed to in cars is helping a lot, we have been waved to the front of every queue so far. The Moroccans even wanted to see the log books for our bikes! We got through the African port in about 45 minutes in the end which wasn't too bad.
We changed some money and set off for Marrakesh, they have built a motorway since I was last here, which meant getting to the capital was an easy ride except for the speed cameras! We had been warned to look out for them but could never have imagined how many there would be! In one 20 mile stretch there must have been a mixture of about 10 police speed traps, gatsos and armed checkpoints!
On arrival we had to find somewhere cheap to stay. A little old man on a moped pulled over to chat to us as we looked lost, he said to follow him to a hotel, trustingly we did, we are both on quite big powerful bikes but through the manic seemingly lawless streets we really did struggle to stay with him! He did as promised though and it even had parking for the bikes.
We ate that night out in the open in the hustle and bustle of the main square
Miles covered: 364
6 May 2008
6 May
3pm we reached Algeciras on the southern coast of Spain. Once again a nice easy ride with clear twisty roads across the plains and through the mountains
We have a ferry booked for the morning across to Tangier, could of caught an earlier ferry but the plan has always been to arrive in Morocco in the morning rather than at night
Looking forward to Africa tomorrow
Miles covered: 338
We have a ferry booked for the morning across to Tangier, could of caught an earlier ferry but the plan has always been to arrive in Morocco in the morning rather than at night
Looking forward to Africa tomorrow
Miles covered: 338
5 May 2008
5 May
The weather was great and we were covering many miles effortlessly, after various stops we finally called it a day at a nice little hotel/restaurant at about 7.30pm
Miles covered: 302
4 May
Finally the morning we had been waiting for came, unfortunately Ewan and Charley who were meant to be driving our support trucks overslept..... oh well we'll have to try to manage without!
Apart from that all went well, we set off about 6.15 in the end. When we stopped for breakfast on the way to Plymouth I checked the Moto GP results.... and Rossi had won for the first time in ages which couldn't have been a better start to the trip!
Anyway the blog won't really start until we get to Africa and the fun begins! So to summarise we got to Plymouth in plenty of time, got the ferry to Spain and dad was seasick while Plymouth was still in sight!
Miles covered: 278
Apart from that all went well, we set off about 6.15 in the end. When we stopped for breakfast on the way to Plymouth I checked the Moto GP results.... and Rossi had won for the first time in ages which couldn't have been a better start to the trip!
Anyway the blog won't really start until we get to Africa and the fun begins! So to summarise we got to Plymouth in plenty of time, got the ferry to Spain and dad was seasick while Plymouth was still in sight!
Miles covered: 278
27 April 2008
Preparation - loading the bikes
Obviously this trip has taken months of planning, but now we are getting down to the smaller details... like if everything will fit on the bikes, luckily all went well!
17 April 2008
6,000 Miles return trip from Herne Bay to Bakau, The Gambia
The journey will start on 4 May 2008, when we will ride to Plymouth to catch a ferry to Santander in northern Spain
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